A quick glimpse at the
combinations of Fuji S3 Pro settings and Real Life Use of this
pretty amazing digital camera.
In this article I will present my own choice of settings, so your
opinions may differ.
Fuji S3 Pro Settings:
- Resolution and quality: RAW or jpeg, 12 Mpx or 6 Mpx, Fine
or Normal
- Dynamic range
- White balance
- Tone
- Color
- Sharpness
- ISO
- sRGB, aRGB
- Studio and location with studio lighting
- Weddings and Event photography
- Location portraits
- Architecture, Industrial
- Product shots
- Using flash: SB 800 and studio
Fuji S3 pro Settings:
RAW or jpeg, 12 Mpx or 6 Mpx, Fine or Normal
This decision is based on the final use of the image and the shooting
conditions.
I shoot RAW for ultimate quality - commercial clients, magazines,
all situations when the image is going to be used for offset printing
at A4 size or larger or printed bigger than A4 using photo printers.
Jpeg is for fast paced assignments and for the images which are
going to be used smaller than A4.
The Fuji S3 Pro is THE camera for shooting jpegs and if the exposure
and WB are nailed the images can be used confidently for any purpose.
12 Mpx or 6 Mpx: I use 6 Mpx for event shots, since most of them
will never be used at more than 5"x7". This allows for
about 333 images on a 1GB card and for a much faster image management
on the desktop computer back at the office.
Fine or Normal: I only use Fine, I like to have minimum compression
on the images since most images could benefit from some minor corrections
before delivery to the client.
I use Auto most of the time, except in very high contrast situations
when Wide 2 could help. If shot in RAW, all the following settings
except the ISO can be altered in post processing.
Again Auto most of the time, except when I have a chance to use
Custom and in Tungsten lighting when I use the appropriate setting.
Custom white balance is really important in studio settings, to
ensure shot to shot consistency.
Surprisingly, I found that "Hard" is the best choice
for me. The "standard" and "original" are much
more adapted for the images which will be post processed, but "hard" give
me ready to use files.
High. All the time. As with the Tone above, if the shot was properly
taken, there is no need for post processing with these settings.
Beware that if the white balance is wrong, high tone will make
things a bit worse. But you already know that getting white balance
right is the key of successfully shooting jpegs.
High, except for portraits where I prefer standard. I do a lot
of corporate, industrial, architecture, and high sharpness is very
well suited to these subjects, since the images do not need any
other additional sharpening.
100 ISO when possible, but for the event shots I do not hesitate
to go to 800 ISO. I like to bounce the flash a lot, and in medium
to big rooms, ISO 800 is really needed. Up to 400 ISO there is
virtually no visible noise, so I do a lot of available light industrial
images at ISO 400.
I prefer sRGB, unless the client specifically asks for Adobe RGB.
As most clients do not know what Adobe RGB is, I deliver sRGB just
to be on the safe side.
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Real life use:
- Studio and location with studio lighting
Since the lighting is abundant and under control I prefer to shoot
for maximum quality. This means RAW, 100 ISO, custom white balance,
if possible tethered shooting.
- Weddings and Event photography
I always have an SB 800 on a Newton bracket attached to the camera,
and I am a big fan of fill in flash. This means that I prefer to
increase the ISO setting to be able to capture as much as possible
of the available light. I determined that for my (and my clients')
taste, ISO 800 offers an acceptable quality so I use it a lot.
I shoot almost always jpegs, in 12 Mpx or 6 Mpx setting, depending
on the final use of the images.
When in location, I prefer to mix the available light with some
flash, so I use two portable flashes which allow me to cope with
most situations. I prefer to do a custom white balance, for precision
and consistency. I usually shoot jpegs 12 Mpx, since it is much
faster.
- Architecture and Industrial
For architecture a good tripod is saving the day, especially in
the interiors. I again prefer to show the natural ambiance, so
the available light get used as much as possible.
The wide DR of the Fuji S3 comes to the rescue quite often in
high contrast situations usually encountered when doing architecture
interiors. Since the architectural subjects do not move, ISO 100,
optimum aperture and a matching exposure time do the trick.
Industrial images are quite different, since there is usually
poor and ugly light combined with moving people. Here I use with
great pleasure the high quality ISO 400 of the Fuji S3, combined,
if possible with some flash light.
The Fuji S3 Pro can be a lifesaver when shooting shiny products
because the SR sensor with its wide DR.
Otherwise, the resolution is good enough for the images to be
printed up to a double page in the magazine.
- Studio - tethered: Fashion, Portraits, Products
Quite strange, the Fuji S3 shoots much faster when tethered to
a computer than shooting on CF cards.
I prefer to shoot tethered to a laptop as often as possible, always
in the studio and in static setups in location.
Both I and the client enjoy the possibility of seeing the image
on a calibrated screen, which makes for a great time saver in many
situations.
- Using flash: SB 800 and studio
The Fuji S3 has only D-TTL flash, as opposed to the more modern
Nikon
i-TTL system. I found that the D-TTL on the S3 does a very decent job when
using a Nikon SB-800 flash.
I also enjoy the 5th battery on the Nikon SB-800 which give much
faster recycling times, very neccessary if you, as me, like to
bounce the flash a lot.
When the Fuji S3 senses an SB flash it will automatically switch
to Auto white balance, ignoring any setting you made, except for
custom white balance. This can be a bad or a good thing, depending
on your shooting style. If I am in a tungsten lit interior and
intend to shoot both flash and available light shots, I simply
switch the camera to tungsten white balance so when the flash is
on it will work on auto, and when the flash is off it will shoot
on tungsten white balance, a quite fool proof feature.
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Price / performance
When first realease, The Fuji S3 Pro was a quite expensive camera,
but only at the first glance.
The combination of wide DR, good resolution (much better than
the 6 Mpx cameras and at least as good or better as the 8 Mpx cameras),
great jpegs out of the camera and good high ISO performance made
it a pretty unique camera for a lot of photographers.
The Fuji S3 Pro is very well suited for architecture, industrial
and landscape photography, product shots (wide DR, resolution),
social events, portraits and weddings (wide DR, great jpegs).
Especially the wide DR and if shot properly almost no need for
post processing make the Fuji S3 Pro an invaluable tool for wedding
and social photographers which can save countless computer hours
after shooting hundred of frames at each assignment, so thousand
images each week.
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Conclusion
The Fuji S3 could be either a great or an unusable camera, depending
on your shooting needs.
The S3 can not shoot fast in RAW due to a small buffer and incredibly
low transfer speed, and even in wide DR jpegs it can't reach more
than 1 fps. So it is out of the question for any fast paced shooting,
including press, sports or any situation where you need to shoot
a lare number of RAW files in a short time (high end fashion).
But there are situations when the Fuji S3 simply excels: high
contrast subjects (including weddings) and all situations when
you need to shoot a lot of jpegs and do not have the time or will
to postprocess.
Also, even the Fuji S3 is labeled by some as a 6 Mpx camera, its
resolution is really incredible, only to be bested by the new 12-16
Mpx cameras.
For my needs I consider the Fuji S3 as one of the best cameras,
especially at its price. And even if I will add a Nikon D2x in
my bag I do not intend to get rid of my Fuji S3.
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